As I sit in a small coffee shop in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, I can’t help but reflect on the last two and a half weeks. What once felt like a slow passing of time as I navigated new experiences on this journey now seems to have flown by. When Vietnam was starting to feel like home, it was time to move on to the next destination. I was beginning to learn my way around the streets of Hanoi and recognize familiar, smiling faces in the shops I pass by daily.
Vietnam ranks among the top countries on my list for having some of the kindest people I've had the pleasure of meeting. One of the first things I noticed when I arrived was the abundance of smiles and cheerful "hellos" from people as I walked down the streets. This was the first country I visited where the locals did not widely speak English. While most people knew basic phrases like "hello," "thank you," "yes," and "no," I found that Google Translate became essential on many occasions. No matter the language barrier, a little sign language could effectively get the point across. After a little game of charades, the conversations always ended with smiles, laughter, and often a light-hearted joke shared with a local. I was often unsure of what we were laughing about, but the exchanges were always filled with joy on both sides.
During my time in Hanoi, I decided to rent a small apartment to enjoy quiet and have a few days to myself after staying in hostels for several weeks. The joke was on me, though, as a massive construction site was happening outside my window!
Looking back at the beginning of my travels, I've thought about the moments when I felt unsure about my emotions and how to navigate them. I found myself contemplating the idea of changing my flights for the first time, questioning my choices about the future, all while trying to figure out what was making me feel this uncertainty for the first time. No matter what I felt, I stopped and thought about the positives I was experiencing each day, how my body felt eating healthier food, and the benefit of having so much fresh air every day, walking around, and sleeping fully each night. There are so many things that I often don't experience regularly in America. I reminded myself of one of the greatest things I've come to appreciate. In times of silence and in times of struggle, the moments that I feel the most alone. Those have often become the moments I cherish the most and have gained the most exceptional amount of growth for myself.
As I sat drinking fresh apricot juice today, I observed life happening all around me. I realized this was the first time I was truly experiencing my travels solo over the last several days. Although my journeys often start solo, I usually meet so many new friends that I transform from "Hannah party of one" into part of a whole new crew before I know it!
Needing a break from experiencing cultural differences that I had never experienced before in other countries and identifying my social battery needing a recharge led me to put myself out there and enjoy a lot of my time in Vietnam, genuinely independent.
The streets of Hanoi are bustling with life, and it's not hard to get lost in the chaos—there is excitement, shopping, and, of course, coffee on every corner!
Vietnamese coffee is known to be some of the strongest in the world, and wow! It's so delicious. Some popular coffee to try in Vietnam is the Vietnamese egg coffee as well as coconut coffee. I know, egg coffee? Don't worry; this was actually one of my favorite orders every morning! Some shops make it a bit thicker, but the trick is to take your spoon and dollop the coffee over the custard-like foam that rests above it and enjoy this amazing morning treat!
On my first day back in Hanoi, I set out to explore the Old Quarter and visit some of the main shopping districts. There are plenty of tailors throughout Vietnam, with Hoi An, located a bit to the south, being particularly known for offering some of the best and most affordable tailor-made clothing. Since I wasn't planning to travel south on this trip, I researched and discovered "Madame Ha Handmade."
Although there are many tailors in Hanoi, I found this quaint little shop after reading positive reviews. They had several handmade designs available for purchase, and I selected a pair of trousers and some fabric I liked. I then had them custom-made to fit me perfectly! After only a day and a half, I could pick up my specially made pants, and the cost was only $25!
Walking about, the streets near Hoan Kiem Lake are filled with vendors selling all sorts of different foods. So many different smells fill the air, the sounds of the scooters beeping past as you weave yourself in and out, navigating the busy streets. I took the day to explore with my camera and see where my wandering took me. I stumbled into the famous jewelry district called Hang Bac Street, explored all of the sterling silver and gold shops, passed by the numerous clothing shops, and then set off into the park to walk near the lake. Walking to the lake, there's SO MUCH to look at! It's hard to take it all in and not get hit by one of the passing motorbikes!
As I walked around the lake, I took a moment to stop and buy some fresh fruit from one of the vendors strolling by. After I pointed to the guava, she began peeling and cutting it, then handed me a small plastic bag as she added large, fresh pieces of the fruit. She dusted the fruit with a mixture of sugar, salt, and a hint of spice. I continued my walk and decided to take a break on a park bench to enjoy the beautiful day around me.
Sitting on the lake is the Ngoc Son Temple, a sacred site nestled in the heart of Hanoi. It is a special place for the Vietnamese people to visit and pray for peace of mind and good fortune. This quaint location offers beautiful views of the lake and the surrounding area while allowing visitors to appreciate its traditional architecture. The bridge to the temple is called Huc Bridge, which symbolizes the Sun God. At the temple entrance, a large gate is topped with a blue stone pot featuring a famous Chinese poem.
After hours of wandering through the busy streets, I stumbled upon a cozy pizza place near the lake. As I walked past, the inviting smells of woodfired pizza hit me immediately. The restaurant seemed a bit more pricey than the budget-friendly spots I had been eating at lately, but I couldn’t resist the temptation; I thought, "Why not indulge a little?"
There’s something special about seeking comfort food while traveling—it’s like finding a slice of home in unfamiliar places. I ordered the Salmon Fettuccine Alfredo, and with the first bite of the homemade egg noodles, I was taken aback by how good this pasta was! This offered the perfect bit of comfort food and might also be one of my favorite dishes while traveling!
Do you mean to tell me the one place I was most excited to see is closed?
One of the most popular tourist attractions in Hanoi is the train street. After spending some time in Vietnam, I began to notice rumors all over Instagram that the police were chasing away tourists and that the overcrowding was raising significant safety concerns. At first, I was a little disappointed. This was one of the things I had been really looking forward to experiencing during my time here. That's why I needed to figure out how to get onto this street. I've learned that if you ask a few locals and make some new friends, you can pretty much accomplish anything while exploring!
After doing some research, I noticed that a lot of people were talking about the entrance to Train Street. When you use Apple or Google Maps, it takes you to one specific location, which is known as the start of Train Street. This area is where most police officers are found, often pushing tourists away.
However, if you plan accordingly and head south down the tracks toward the end of the route, you'll discover an area filled with small coffee shops that serve not only coffee but also smoothies and alcohol. What do they not have? Police escorting you away, SCORE!
Even looking at the photos I took, Train Street doesn't seem real to me! It looks so perfectly chaotic that it looks animated and almost cartoon-like to me. The glow from the neon lights and lanterns that light up the streets of Hanoi, especially Train Street, is such a beautiful glow in the night. Above each of the small cafes are apartments, with some people living in the area while most are the owners residing above their businesses. I couldn't even imagine what it would be like living so close to this train, surrounded by the flood of tourists all the time!
The train passes by several times a day, but if I had to make a recommendation, I would highly suggest going in the evening to see all of the lights drawn above the tracks. The train passes at 7:10 pm, 7:30 pm, and a few other times, leading up to 11 p.m. It's good to look into the schedule if you plan to visit because it does change.
If you ever find yourself on Train Street in the future, pick up a fun souvenir to bring home. While I was waiting for the train to pass, I enjoyed a local beer, "Bia Hanoi." I then placed my bottle cap and some others I found on the ground. The caps were flattened when the train rushed by, creating the perfect little keepsake for me to take home!
Hoa Lo Prison
Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton, was named by American POWs during the Vietnam War.
Before it received its infamous nickname, this gruesome prison had a long history preceding the Vietnam War. It was once used to hold Vietnamese political prisoners during the time of French rule. At the entrance, the words "Maison Centrale," which means "central house," are prominently displayed, and the name of the prison, Hoa Lo, often translates to "Fiery Furnace" or "Hell's Hole."
French colonists boldly placed these words above the door during their rule in Indochina from 1886 to 1901. Upon entering this prison, many realized they might not walk out again. Guillotines stood at the front door, and mass executions often occurred upon arrival. The prison sometimes held up to 730 prisoners, with a separate wing for women and children. Survivor stories and photos reveal the gruesome reality of Hoa Lo during this time. Conditions were harsh, and diseases like typhoid often broke out due to a lack of proper hygiene and care. Food was limited and typically consisted of rotten fish sauce with maggots, tough old buffalo meat, soybeans, and various vegetables, served in wooden buckets or troughs for the prisoners to eat from.
With conditions already brutal, the prisoners often endured many torturous tactics by the French during their time at Hoa Lo. Buckets of water would be sealed from the top with a prisoner inside, then beaten from the outside, causing deafness and death by drowning; electrocutions, and beatings were also regularly taking place across both the men's and women's wings of the prison.
"It is
We are here in the place of establishing.
Two meals a day, I go back and forth, how vicious it is.
Who knows what to do in and out?
Which meal has a little bit!
In the morning, fish sauce, in the evening, sesame, vegetables, worms, I gnaw the whole hull, try to chew it, it will stretch its neck out.
Buffalo meat with skin
Children cant chew, how can old people chew and swallow?
There are still bland tofu
and sunday with luck, a few pieces of pork, chewy pork."
Almond trees grow in the prison courtyards, and they have gained great significance in the walls of Hoa Lo prison and Vietnam. Prisoners used these trees for food, and the leaves and fruit were used as medicine. The branches were used to make musical instruments and eating utensils like chopsticks. The tree became a special meeting place for many to help plan resilience, hide letters, and share a peaceful place for communicating amongst themselves.
After the defeat at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954, the French left Hanoi, leaving the prison to the Vietnamese. On August 5th, 1964, a United States military pilot was shot down and became the first American citizen to enter the walls of Hoa Lo prison. The prison soon became the holding place for the American POW pilots shot down during the Vietnam War (in Vietnam, the war is referred to as the "American War"). At the start of the war, prisoners experienced conditions similar to the Vietnamese also experienced during their time in the walls of Hoa Lo.
The Americans nicknamed the prison the "Hanoi Hilton," and later, some referred to it as "Little Vegas," after they nicknamed different parts of the prison after Las Vegas strip landmarks. The majority of the pilots trained at Nellis Air Force Base, so the names were familiar to many of the POWs. The Geneva Conventions, after some time, required the treatment of prisoners to follow in accordance, which the Vietnamese showed proof of following certain accordance during a public broadcast in 1969. During the later parts of the same year, the treatment of the American prisoners increased greatly following their release.
As I exited the prison, I walked the somber walkway, and along it were several different quotes as I passed by, one of them read:
"Living in this life, each has their own duty. We're adolescence, with excellency and charm... Will to be free and wander, Belief in ourselves, Operate is the joy. Willing to fight until the end..." - Chu Ha
I sat on a bench with this quote in front of me, reading it over and over again. Contemplating so many different thoughts, everything I had just seen, heard, and felt while sitting inside the different prison cells at Hoa Lo. The heaviness of lives tortured and some lost. People who stood up for their beliefs, only to be sent to their deaths, and souls fighting for their countries during war, taken away. Officers were assigned gruesome duties, each reflecting the harsh realities of that dark time. The quote reminded me that everyone who entered Hoa Lo shared one profound trait: they were willing to fight until the end. Each story and sacrifice echoed through the prison walls, and I found myself in awe of the courage and strength of each person who resided here at one time. It was a moment of reflection, a reminder of the strength of the human spirit even in the face of unimaginable suffering.
I sat there reflecting on the quote. While away, I celebrated my 30th birthday, shared new emotions with myself during travel that I had not done before, and conquered new cultural experiences. The quote resonated deeply with me, urging me to embrace the essence of living fully. In this moment, I recognized the uniqueness of each person’s journey. It reminded me that we all have our roles to play in this life, and that there’s beauty in our individuality. As I move into the coming year, I hold onto the belief in myself, cherishing the dreams and aspirations I have yet to pursue.
A reminder that I am still so young, with so much resilience, love, and adventure built up inside of me, blessed with a soul that is driven by, for most people, uncomfortable circumstances and the desire to seek so much knowledge and adventure. I was given this one life to be free and wander, to continue believing in myself no matter the times of uncertainty. I have one lifetime to operate with joy, and I will continue, no matter what, believing in myself all the way to the end.
