1 a.m.... Finally, I arrived in Pokhara early in the morning after traveling from Kathmandu on one of the local buses. After 10 hours on the bus, a few stops for food and bathroom, and a wonderful viewing of ninja movies and love stories in another language, getting dropped on the side of the street in an unknown place was somewhat of a relief!
I took my journey to Nepal solo but arrived in Pokhara with two guys I met in Kathmandu, Arne and Shanti. One was from Germany, and the other was from Austria. We all had our own stories and had been on our own paths in life, but Nepal brought us together early in my trip, and I guess you could say we were inseparable. Shanti has been traveling for the last few years. Arne was on his first adventure outside of Europe. For myself, well, I guess I can say I've been going back and forth for about a year and a half now. I find myself more and more each time, contemplate this one life I have, and get to know myself more and more each journey.
Arriving at night (not at a bus stop), we found ourselves on the side of the street in a new city with possibilities waiting for us. A few taxis sat waiting to pick people up, and a younger guy walked the almost empty street with a silver canister selling Masala Chai. Masala Chai ("chai" meaning tea) is a popular tea made from black tea, spices, and milk in Southern Asia. When you walk about or order on a menu in Nepal, you see the words "milk tea" for this warming, spiced drink.
Enjoying a hot chai on the side of the street, which cost us only 50 Nepali Rupees ($0.36), we took a minute to take in Pokhara's cool, clean air. Then, we continued to bargain a price with the taxi to take us to our hostel.
We arrived at Kiwi Backpackers in lakeside Pokhara around 1:30 a.m., checked into some rooms, and went to bed.
After arriving in the night, waking up, I stepped outside of my room and climbed the staircases to the roof. I knew Pokhara had beautiful views from what I had seen online, but no matter what I saw, this was the moment that took my breath away. I was standing on this roof on the other side of the world, the calmness of the morning with the beauty of the Annapurna range right there in front of me.
The day led us down a path to find some quiet and enjoy the surrounding nature. Arne wanted to swim, and so that was the plan.
The three of us set out on foot, walking an hour outside the main town to an area called Mustang Chowk. Walking through the busy streets, we stopped along the way to enjoy some food and smoothies while taking in our new surroundings. Our walk led us away from the bustling town, down dirt roads and quiet villages. During our walk, we were approached by a few kids playing football (soccer) who were excited to give us some information about their country. The boys were probably around 10-12 years old and asked us if we knew that in our country, it's the year 2025, but in their country, it's the year 2081. In Nepal, they follow the Bikram Sambat calendar, which is the Hindu traditional lunar calendar. We enjoyed the conversation, and they were excited to use their exceptional English skills. We asked who their favorite football player was, and the boy responded with the famous Polish player "Lewandowski". I guess I can say I'm slightly famous in these parts of Nepal!
A cliff overlooking the Furse khola (a tributary of the Seti Gandaki River). The river was so blue, filled with small fish.
There were no sounds from cars, and only a few locals were out to catch some fish. We started a fire and watched as the sun began to set, enjoying the peace and quiet. With the sun dropping, the temperatures did as well. We set off on the walk back to the hostel after the sunset, enjoying the sights of the night back to the lakeside.
Pokhara is known for many different features. After spending several days in the city, we were eager to experience various types of scenery. Phewa Lake is central to Pokhara and offers stunning views from every angle. This freshwater lake is the second largest in Nepal. You can rent a "taal" boat in several areas around the lake to explore and enjoy the surroundings. Taking a peaceful ride on one of the boats is definitely worth it and costs about 450 rupees; having three of us, we split the cost, and it was individually about $1.
Exploring Pokhara offers a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in its streets. You can easily get lost in time, discover local foods and juices, and witness the simple lifestyle of the community. The welcoming atmosphere and relaxed pace of life here add to a sense of comfort that makes you feel at home quickly.
For days, I found myself getting more and more relaxed, meeting people from all different parts of the world and exploring all different parts of their lives. Sharing stories with each other around fires in local backyards and the rooftop of the hostel each night, conversations around tables at breakfast each morning, talking with different local people about life, sharing about the world all with such a large thing in common, the opportunity to be with each other and appreciating where life has brought us, and blessed with time to experience and learn from each other.
I had one task I wanted to accomplish during my time in Pokhara. I've often mentioned how much I've learned to appreciate going out of my way for the small moments life offers. Sunsets and sunrises have become significant experiences that I value more as time goes on, and I always try to capture these moments in as many beautiful places as possible.
Pokhara was no exception. Waking up around 5 a.m., the boys and I took a taxi to the Sarangkot district to watch the sunrise over the Annapurna Range. We were woken up by the sun, panoramic views overlooking the city, and an unobstructed sight of the Western Himalayas. After the sun had risen, we met a new friend, "Bimal," who offered to assist us with hitchhiking down the mountain. The taxi to the viewpoint wasn't costly, but we're travelers! Cost is important, and if we can catch a ride to help us save a little, that's always the first option!
I often hitchhike in foreign countries; as crazy as that might sound, it is common. I would never think to do this in America, but like any situation, it's always good to listen to your gut and follow through with what you think is best. Most people are always friendly and kind enough to help you, but like anywhere, it's good to be cautious.
Bimal invited us to his home to hang out while we waited for a ride in the paragliding trucks that take tourists to Sarangkot in the mornings. Arriving at his home, we were greeted by his mom. He lives in a small house surrounded by beautiful gardens and breathtaking views from every angle. Bimal's mom made us coffee, chapati (Indian flatbread), and an omelet. While I sat overlooking the Himalayas, drinking coffee, I watched Bimal's mom pick each vegetable and herb from her garden, take the eggs from their chickens, and cook us what I would say is truly a homecooked meal. An omelet filled with spinach, onion, and chive, all so fresh. I thanked his mother for their kindness and enjoyed each bite with appreciation for the moment I was in, the quiet surroundings at their peaceful home on a hill.
Waking up each day and visiting the rooftop of our hostel, one view always stood out as you looked to your left: a large statue set on a cliff so large that you could see it from every distance—the Pumdikot Shiva statue. The statue is 108 feet tall and sits on Pumdikot Hill.
It has become a major tourist attraction and pilgrimage site for Hindus.
After being dropped off nearby, we hiked through the woods until we reached an opening that led us to the road leading to the statue. During our short hike, we enjoyed views of the villages and mustard fields, and as we climbed higher, our views expanded even more.
Finally, when we made our way to the statue, it was crazy to see how massive it was in front of me after viewing it from afar for a few days.
Shiva is an important God in Hinduism, representing goodness and generosity and serving as a protector. The belief is that Shiva is a creator and destroyer of all things so that they can exist. Shiva, one of the five main deities, married to Parvati the father of Ganesha.
Shiva has several identifying factors, such as the serpent king, with the snake hanging around his neck, the crescent moon, and the holy Ganga River, believed to be flowing from his hair. The third eye seeks to turn what is in his path to ash when opened, the trident in his closed hand, with the sacred "Om" syllable in his open hand. The Om is a sacred syllable and logo of yoga practice, representing the sacred sound and popular mantra in Hinduism. Shiva is depicted as slaying demons and is also considered Adiyogi (the first yogi), who greatly influenced yoga practice and meditation.
Mt. Kailash is Shiva's birthplace in the southwestern corner of the Himalayas. Visual references to Shiva are placed throughout Nepal and the Himalayas, and the large statue, which is placed high overlooking the city and Himalayan range, was far from disappointing.
The blue sky blended with Shiva's skin, making it the perfect backdrop. I've seen photos and learned about Shiva during my travels. With traveling I've begun incorporating yoga into my life, and naturally, the education of Shiva falls into the practice. This was the first opportunity for me to see such a large visual of the great deity, and it was incredible to see all the aspects up close that make him such an important role in the faith. The pictures don't justify how large the statue was compared to it being in front of me.
I lost myself in time, and before I knew it, I was boarding my flight, going back to Kathmandu to continue my travels to India. If it's in your budget, take the flight along this route (from what I've heard more than once, avoid Yeti Airlines). The flight ascended, and the mountains took over the sky the entire flight. A last view of the Himalayas before saying goodbye.
I wrote in my journal the morning before I left Pokhara and below is a photo of the only thing I could find inside myself leaving this place too soon. (excuse the lack of legible handwriting)
Before my trip to Nepal, people frequently asked me, "Where are you going next?" When I replied, "Nepal," I often received blank stares or brief comments. Most people didn’t know where Nepal was, while others asked, "What country is that in?" Once I mentioned Mt. Everest, everyone recognized the famous mountain. I don't blame those who aren't sure about geographical locations because it's not a main focus in the American school system to learn deeply about many places of the world and other cultures. Nepal lies in Southern Asia, a landlocked country with China in the North and India bordering the South, East, and West. A place that is not well known to most and sandwiched between two of the most populated countries in the world.
A quote from British writer and broadcaster Ben Fogle, "I have spent time in many of the world’s popular wilderness locations, and I would say Nepal should be proud. It is an example of man repairing the damage he has done."
My only advice is to prioritize a trip to Nepal at least once in your life. Instead of spending what might end up being more money on a local destination simply because the flight costs seem overwhelming, I assure you that once you arrive, your perspective on life will change forever. Nepal has a way of taking your spirit so quickly, bringing peace to your mind and calming your soul. It’s a place that, if you open yourself to its beauty, will remain within you for a lifetime.
