Welcome To The Valley: Kathmandu, Nepal

Where to even begin...

It had been several months since I last traveled, the longest period I had spent in America since the start of 2023. On the same day in January 2024, I stepped into the unknown, as I did in January 2023. I found myself heading to the airport, but this time, it felt nostalgic. Of course, overwhelming thoughts were racing through my mind as I set out on another solo journey to a place unfamiliar to me. This was only my second time heading to the east, and I was ready to see what more it had to offer me. After traveling so much, I didn’t have as many worries crossing my mind as much as I had excitement to feel free again.

For the first time in my travels, I had almost no plan for my trip. It was time to put my life in the hands of Nepal and see where it took me.

Nepal had been on my mind for quite some time. After an extended period at home, I asked myself, "What do I need in my life right now? What will guide me down a beneficial path at the start of the new year?" The answer immediately came to me: Nepal.

When I thought of Nepal, I had limited information about the country, but all that came to my mind was peace, kind people, and the stunning Himalayan Mountains from things I've seen in different movies or television shows. After nearly two years of wanting to visit this country, I finally booked my ticket and began counting down the days. Little did I know how much I needed Nepal and how profoundly it would change my perspective and soul.

Upon arriving after a long journey, I stepped into the Kathmandu airport. The plane ride to Nepal had already excited me, especially with the breathtaking view of the Himalayas as we approached. Everything immediately felt natural as I walked off the plane and into the airport. I never experienced the overwhelming cultural rush that often accompanies travel to certain countries. Instead, it felt like I was arriving somewhere familiar, which is a comforting feeling for a traveler.

Once I got to my hostel, settling in was almost impossible. I met some of my new roommates, and they mentioned visiting the Buddha Stupa (one of Kathmandu's bigger tourist attractions), which was high on my list of things to see. Settling in was the last thing on my mind at that moment. Unpacking never truly happens when traveling, but there's never enough time to take in every moment with the new people you meet. After only about an hour in Nepal, I was off with new friends, exploring the streets.

Time and time again, I can say that traveling solo is never a quiet journey. Friends are made faster than I have ever experienced in my life, and the bonds you quickly form together become some of the best. It isn’t long before your solo journey transforms into traveling with a new family.

New friends from all parts of the world. Russia, Australia, Netherlands, and England.

A long journey turned into a long day spent with everyone exploring the Kathmandu Valley, trying local foods, and venturing into the crowded markets.

Traveling in a backpack can be tricky at times. During this time, I was also visiting India, and the climates were opposite. I had to pack for the warm beaches and the colder nights of the Himalayas, so I needed to find some warm clothes since my lack of packing provided me with little warmth...

I always seem to have something in mind when traveling to countries that I like to purchase for myself. Nepal was no different. Even though I had almost no plan for my two weeks visiting, I knew one thing I had my mind set on accomplishing: buy a poncho made from Yak wool, which is famous to the Nepali.

I have to say, the poncho is probably one of my favorite things I've gotten while traveling. It kept me warm the whole journey!

My hostel was located in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, one of the city's larger shopping districts. Thamel has numerous places to eat, shop, and purchase anything you might need for trekking or basic necessities. There’s almost no reason besides exploration to venture much further outside this area for most of your needs. Although this is a significant tourist market, it's also filled with plenty of local restaurants and shops, so you still get an authentic experience within the streets. It’s a great spot because you can easily walk everywhere and find everything you need.

The life that fills the streets of Thamel is bustling at all hours. Once 7 a.m. approaches there's excitement and people filling the streets.

My roommate and I were in very different time zones, so we both woke up around 5 a.m. the first night. Venturing into the streets of Thamel, we found time for a bit of quiet in Kathmandu.

Walking the mostly quiet streets in the early morning, with only a few people around, I shared my thoughts with my new friend. "I would never do this at home." Strolling through a strange place during these early hours and actually feeling safe is something I can't say for myself on a regular basis, yet I often find myself doing it when I travel. Immediately, I felt that Nepal was much safer than the country I call home.

What an amazing feeling to have and feel within myself once again...

As we walked deeper into the Thamel area, we heard music and laughter and saw so many people in the streets. A few people approached us, inviting us to join them in the nightclubs. We looked at each other and realized we were still in our pajamas, looking for coffee and breakfast, while everyone else was still out and hadn’t gone to bed yet! Don’t discredit Nepal before you go. The nightlife in this city is lively, even on a Wednesday morning!

While enjoying coffee, chai, and some delicious pastries, I shared stories about life currently and where we are going. It was a great moment to share with a new friend who understood so much that's been on my mind.

Before heading to Nepal, I saw a post on Instagram from someone who traveled there recently. They mentioned if you sit and wait, you will experience all of Nepal's beauty come to you. I kept this thought in mind during my trip. It was the first time I traveled without a detailed plan and only had a few things I wanted to do or see. I aimed to let the beauty I heard about come into my life. Traveling without a plan allows you to move at a slower pace. This slow travel gives you more opportunities to connect with locals and learn about them and their city. It pushes you outside your comfort zone, encouraging you to talk to people you meet and discover the path that you're supposed to be on. Instead of just being a tourist, you get to truly experience the culture of the places you visit.

The people of Nepal (Nepali) are some of the most incredible people I've come across while traveling. I was welcomed with open arms to their country, felt right at home, and their kind-natured souls filled every corner. With the slow-natured, peaceful atmosphere, it's easy to feel a calming sense come over you. Walking the streets with my camera, I found that beauty I had read about, and just as I read, it came to me with every step and didn't disappoint.

An experience I didn't expect to have while visiting Nepal was a perfect example of why I was happy to wake up every day and seek adventure in something I hadn’t known about until I arrived.

The primary religion in Nepal is Hinduism. From an outside perspective, Hinduism appears to be a peaceful way of life, but it is a bit overwhelming with so much unfamiliar knowledge. Followers believe in several different deities, each representing unique aspects of faith and guidance. One primary God, "Brahma," is believed to have created the universe within the Hindu faith.

In the Hindu faith, when a person passes away, cremation is the preferred practice to honor their loved ones and help them find peace passing on. Burning the body is believed to assist in the process of reincarnation and to free the soul. This tradition is known as "Antim Sanskar," which means final rites.

Cremating a body represents several important acts in the religion. Fire purifies and helps the soul move on. When the soul leaves the body, a person can reach the next stage of life. After cremation, people are believed to return to the original five elements.

Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu is one of the most significant cremation sites and the holiest pilgrimage destinations for Hindus. The temple is situated along the Bagmati River and provides a sacred space for traditional cremation and religious ceremonies.

Witnessing this during my lifetime is hard to put into words. I felt honored to learn about this and witness it in person, and I also felt emotional watching the families put their loved ones to rest. Learning about something and then seeing it happen and learning more about this ceremonial act is a moment of reflection for me. I appreciate my own life, the ones I saw in front of me, and I'm grateful for the moment I'm so fortunate to be sitting and experiencing in my lifetime. To have my eyes opened to something so different for myself, I feel blessed to have a mind that allows me to appreciate and accept such a moment that could be seen differently by so many. If you're ever somewhere you can experience something like this; I hope we can all take the time to respect and appreciate the world's differences and cultures around us and take in such a profound memory.

Kathmandu amazed me more and more every day. As each day passed, I felt more and more like myself again.

Meeting some friends who had rode their motorcycles from India on a road trip, they offered to take us around on the bikes. Driving through the twists and turns of the alleyways of markets and streets of the valley, we made our way to "Jhochhen Tole" near the markets of Durban Square. Jhochhen Tole is a small neighborhood once known as "Freak Street" in the 1960s and 1970s. During this time, hippies from across the world flooded to Freak Street as it was a place to find deep enlightenment with a calmer life and some of the best hash in the world during this time. Hash is a form of refined, highly potent cannabis that was very popular during this time and legal up until 1976. When the Enlightenment started to end across the world, Freak Street did as well. Now, walking around this area, it's filled mostly with touristy shops, tattoo parlors, restaurants, and Durban Square, which is filled with vendors selling craft-like items for tourists.

Among the many restaurants lies a small bakery and coffee shop called "Snowman Cafe." An older man serves coffee and hot chocolate at the front, and several cakes line the windows. The sweet aroma in the air rushes to you the second you open the door.

Upon opening the door, you notice the dimly lit rooms and realize the electricity is minimal. The glow of candles on the tables lights the space. Young people fill almost every table with conversations, and cigarette smoke flows around you.

Speaking with the man, who was also the owner, he mentioned once having three cafes across Kathmandu, but now there is only one cafe left, the original that he opened during the 1960s at the peak of Freak Street.

The younger generation mainly occupied the cafe, and you can tell it's become a place for everyone to come and hang out and enjoy time passing with friends, keeping the man's legacy alive. After enjoying my German chocolate cake with hot chocolate, I could see why everyone likes to spend time here. With such a chilled-out environment and one of the best pieces of cake I've had in a long time, it's easy to get lost while spending time here.

After spending four days in Kathmandu, my new crew and I decided it was time to move on. We spent our last day getting packed, completing some final tasks, and saying goodbye to friends who were continuing their journeys to other countries or parts of Nepal.

That evening, we went to a local bar in Thamel called "Hole in the Wall." It was a relaxed place, with the bar on the first floor and steep, narrow staircases leading up to six floors. Each floor was uniquely decorated as we climbed, but all had a cozy living room atmosphere. Classical rock and reggae music echoed throughout the venue, where couches, cushions placed on the floor, and tables filled every room, complemented by candles and soft lighting to create a cozy feel.

We chose a spot on the top floor. After some time, our friends from India, we had met earlier, joined us, along with some locals. We drank and shared conversations, sitting on the floor around the table, enjoying the moment together in the Valley of Kathmandu.

The elevation in the Kathmandu Valley is 4,675 ft above sea level (definitely much more than what I'm accustomed to). After a late night and some drinks, I woke up feeling a bit sick. I felt the elevation during my time these last four days, especially since I was out of breath from just walking up a few floors to the dorm in my hostel. Elevation sickness started to take me over for a bit that Saturday. I looked up the symptoms, and my heart rate was definitely elevated; I lacked hunger and thirst and mixed with the lower air quality in Kathmandu, my body decided it had enough.

We were up, packed, and ready to meet our local bus to take us on the 6-hour journey (which turned into about 10- or 11 hours. This can be typical traveling by bus in some of these countries. You just have to sit back and enjoy the ride!) to Pokhara, Nepal. Cleaner air and less elevation were what my body needed, and my journey was leading me down exactly that path. Arriving in Pokhara at about 1 a.m., it was time to see what else Nepal had in store for me.